Easter Sunday is early this year. Is that why we expect to still be wearing our woollies next week? Or is it the hailstones that planted that dismal thought? The Easter we remember was much warmer. We remember sitting on the warm tarmac roof of the Jordan shed, a pop up restaurant where we served imaginary customers the cones from the evergreen for peas. We ate Mrs Jordan’s melt-in-your mouth apple tart, which was made in a thin enamel dish (no nasty cloves). Slices gobbled with tea from a flask, served in plastic beakers. Ater that, lolling on the garden swing, half-heartedly imploring the daisies to run and save themselves from the lawn mower’s first cut. Then home for the roast: the mint sauce out of a jar, and God forgive us, the baby carrots too – it was a special occasion after all! The smell of roasting lamb (from the butchers, where else? This is the Dublin side of the family tree we’re reminiscing about) filled every corner of the house, rousing teenage boys just in time to wipe the sleep out of their eyes. Some things don’t change. But with Liam in charge, the menu has. The lamb we serve at Moloughney’s is either from Slaney Valley, Co Wexford, or from William Drohan’s farm, Lemybrien, Co Waterford. It will be studded with rosemary and garlic, slow-roasted, and is usually served with a creamy potato gratin or new season Irish potatoes, carrots from Gold River Farm, a mint pesto and jus. For afters we recommend the Rhubarb Crumble with bay & ginger ice cream. But yes, there’s apple pie too.

A bit about Moloughney’s

The restaurant opened in 2009 in a refurbished Victorian house just off the seafront on Vernon Avenue in Clontarf Village. Offering farm to table seasonal cooking, we believe in the pleasure of eating proper food, locally sourced. Moloughney’s is open every day for breakfast and lunch and from Tuesday to Sunday for dinner.

No. 9 Vernon Avenue was stripped back to its shell, completely rebuilt and the original bricks were re-used to create exposed brick walls in the downstairs and upstairs dining rooms, which are furnished with reclaimed tables and tartan fabrics. Floor-to-ceiling windows open out onto a bustling street in the heart of Clontarf.

more about moloughneys